City Food – Kavita Ka Dhaba

Note: Originally published in Jun 2024

‘Kavita ka dhaba’ should be on top of the list of alternate things to do in Karachi, and it isn’t about food really. In a city where new cafes and restaurants open each day, it is one hell of a task to get noticed, especially on social media, especially without paying for it.

Karachi’s food diversity is often much celebrated, but it is difficult to find aesthetics and menus beyond a few predictable and repetitive templates. Maybe it’s the simplicity and authenticity of Kavita’s approach which has won over so many hearts.

Fatima Jinnah Road (formerly known as Bonus Road, with a signboard reading “Fatima Bonus Road” for some time) stands out as one of Karachi’s most well-kept streets. It boasts numerous heritage sites such as Flagstaff House, Sindh Club, Frere Hall. The road behind it isn’t much talked about though. Some of you may have gone there for attending tuition classes or to meet a friend or two on Christmas evening but otherwise it doesn’t have any major attraction. It does have one now and it is called ‘Kavita ka dhaba’ and it is inspiring more of such stalls around it. There’s more to her appeal.

Kavita Solanki has worked in in Karachi and Middle East before deciding to open her dhaba a few months back. Quickly gaining attention from food bloggers, her clientele steadily grew, with queues forming even before she opens at 5 PM.

Kavita is assisted by her parents and relatives but she’s the face of the dhaba. Standing confidently in the center and managing operations while contributing to cooking also. She calls her dhaba ‘Eat Express’ but everyone knows it by her name. ‘Pav Bhaji’, ‘Vada Pav’ and ‘Daal Samosa’ are some of the popular items on the menu and there’s a Limca wala sitting next. The food tastes different here or maybe it’s the joy of eating out in Karachi breeze. As I finished my plate, I noticed other stalls being setup. Kavita has already inspired more women to setup their own businesses.

People come here with their children and wouldn’t mind sitting on staircases to finish their meal. If you speak to them they talk about the ‘feel’ and ‘culture’ of the street which makes them feel welcome. It is a great place to watch people interact with the staff and with each other, or to feel connected to your fellow citizens.